Praia das Cabanas Velhas

Between the headlands

Praia das Cabanas Velhas is barely a beach. Fifty metres of coarse golden sand wedged between two dark headlands, no sign from the road, no path worth the name, and nothing built on it. The water shifts from pale green inshore to a deep Atlantic blue past the rocks, and the only sounds are waves slapping off the cliff walls and your own breathing.

The beach sits on the coast between Burgau and Salema, roughly 1km from each. Its Portuguese name, Praia das Cabanas Velhas ("Beach of the Old Cabins"), refers to stone fishing shelters that once stood on the headland, though nothing remains of them now. What you get instead is a cove that has barely changed since those cabins crumbled: no bars, no sunbeds, no music, just rock and sand and sea.

At low tide, perhaps 50m of beach opens up. At high tide, the water pushes against the base of the cliffs and the sand shrinks to a strip. This is a beach that rewards those who check the tides before they come.

Why visit Praia das Cabanas Velhas

• Rocky headlands with underwater life: the dark limestone walls on both sides drop into clear water where wrasse, blennies, and sea anemones cluster in the crevices
• Genuinely quiet: even in August, the lack of facilities and limited parking keeps numbers low, and you'll rarely share the sand with more than a dozen people
• Sheltered swimming: the cove faces south and the headlands block the worst of the Atlantic swell, creating calmer water than the exposed beaches nearby
• No development: nothing has been built here. No bars, no roads, no concrete. The difficult access path keeps it that way
• Good snorkelling visibility: on calm days the water clarity reaches several metres, making the rocky edges worth exploring with a mask
• Coastal walking connections: the cliff path links to Burgau (20 minutes west) and the wider Rota Vicentina network

The cove

The sand is coarse and golden, warmer underfoot than it looks. The cove is small — roughly 50m across at low tide — and framed by headlands of dark, stratified rock that rise about 10m on each side. These aren't the towering ochre cliffs of the central Algarve. They're lower, darker, and more textured, with ledges and crevices that create pools at their base when the tide drops.

The eastern headland catches morning sun and throws shade across part of the beach by late afternoon. The western side does the opposite. In midsummer, the cove gets direct sun from mid-morning until early evening, and there's no natural shade on the sand itself.

Behind the beach, the path climbs back up through scrubby vegetation: rosemary, cistus, and low gorse. The air smells of salt and warm stone. On still days the sound of waves bouncing off the rock walls gives the cove a contained, almost enclosed quality.

Swimming and snorkelling

The sheltered position means the water inside the cove is usually calmer than the open coast. On days when the west-facing beaches have overhead surf, Cabanas Velhas might have gentle swells lapping at the sand. That said, this is still the Atlantic. Rough weather can push waves hard against the rocks, and the cove is not swimmable in all conditions.

The best snorkelling is along the base of both headlands, where the rock drops into the water and creates ledges at varying depths. Bring your own mask and snorkel; there's nowhere to rent equipment. In calm conditions with good visibility, you'll see small fish darting between the rocks, sea urchins on the lower ledges, and the occasional octopus in a crevice. The eastern headland tends to have better visibility because it's more sheltered from the prevailing swell.

Water temperature reaches 19–21°C in July and August, dropping to around 17°C in June and September. Even in high summer, it's bracing on entry. A rash vest helps for longer snorkelling sessions.

Best time to visit

For swimming and snorkelling: July and August offer the warmest water and calmest conditions. Check the tide tables. You want a falling or low tide for the most sand and the best access to the rock pools.

For seclusion: June and September. The water is still swimmable with a rash vest, and you're more likely to have the cove entirely to yourself.

For photography: Late afternoon in summer, when the sun drops to the west and lights the eastern headland in warm gold. The cove faces south, so you don't get direct sunset light, but the side-lighting on the rocks is worth the walk down.

Avoid: High tide on any day. The beach all but disappears. Also avoid days with strong westerly winds, which push swell directly into the cove and churn the visibility.

Practical information

The beach has no road access. Park on the roadside of the coastal road between Burgau and Budens. There's space for perhaps six or seven cars on the verge, but no marked spaces and no sign indicating a beach beyond a faint path through the scrub. The turn-off is easy to miss.

The path down takes about five minutes and is steep in places, with loose stone and uneven footing. Wear proper shoes for the descent. Flip-flops are asking for a twisted ankle. The path is not suitable for pushchairs, wheelchairs, or anyone with significant mobility difficulties.

There is a seasonal restaurant on the beach with toilets and sunbed rental, though it may close unexpectedly outside peak summer. Lifeguards are present during the bathing season. Bring water and sun protection regardless, as services are limited and the restaurant's opening hours are unpredictable. Carry out all rubbish. Burgau is roughly 1km west along the coast path (or a short drive), with a wider range of restaurants, a small supermarket, and public toilets. The nearest health centre is in Vila do Bispo, about 10km north.

No public transport serves the beach. You need a car, a bike, or your feet.

Insider tips

• Check the tide before you go. At high tide the beach is barely a strip of wet sand, not worth the scramble down. Time your visit for two hours either side of low tide.
• The roadside parking is unsigned. Coming from Burgau, drive east towards Budens and watch for a gap in the scrub on the seaward side with room for a few cars. If you reach the village, you've gone too far.
• Bring water shoes for the rocky edges. The snorkelling is rewarding but the entry points over rock are rough on bare feet.
• Late afternoon is the quietest time. Most visitors arrive mid-morning and leave by early afternoon.
• The cliff path to Burgau makes a good loop: drive to Cabanas Velhas, spend the morning, then walk to Burgau for a late lunch at one of the fish restaurants.
• Don't rely on mobile signal in the cove. The headlands can block reception.

Frequently asked questions

How do I find Praia das Cabanas Velhas?

The beach is between Burgau and Budens on the coastal road. There's no sign. Look for a gap in the roadside scrub on the seaward side with space for a few cars on the verge. A narrow path leads down through low vegetation to the cove. If you're using GPS, search for "Praia das Cabanas Velhas" and it will get you to the approximate area, but the final 100m is on foot.

Is it suitable for families with children?

It depends on the children's ages and abilities. The steep, uneven path rules out pushchairs, and shade is limited. Lifeguards are present in summer and there is a seasonal restaurant with toilets, but facilities are basic. Older children who are confident swimmers and enjoy scrambling on rocks will love it. For families with toddlers or anyone wanting more comprehensive facilities, Praia do Burgau is a better choice, only 1km away with full facilities and calm water.

Is the water safe for swimming?

In calm conditions, yes. The cove is sheltered and the water relatively gentle compared to exposed beaches. Lifeguards are present during summer, but the rocky edges can be sharp and rough weather can make the cove dangerous. Never swim alone outside the lifeguard season, and avoid the water on days with strong swell.

Is it crowded in summer?

Rarely. The lack of facilities and unsigned access keeps visitor numbers low. Even in August, you'll typically find fewer than a dozen people on the sand. Weekday mornings are quietest.

What should I bring?

Water, food, sun protection, a parasol or beach shelter, sturdy footwear for the path, and a bag for your rubbish. There is a seasonal restaurant, but don't rely on it being open. If you want to snorkel, bring your own mask and snorkel.

Is it good for snorkelling?

Yes, on calm days. The rocky headlands on both sides create interesting underwater terrain with small fish, sea urchins, and anemones. Visibility is best on calm mornings before the wind picks up. The eastern headland tends to offer clearer water. Bring your own equipment; there's nothing to rent.

How big is the beach?

Small. At low tide, roughly 50m of sand opens up between the headlands. At high tide, the beach shrinks to almost nothing. Always check tide times before visiting.

Can I walk to Burgau from here?

Yes. The cliff path west to Burgau takes about 20 minutes and is mostly level with a few gentle rises. It's a pleasant walk with coastal views, and Burgau has restaurants, shops, and a larger beach when you arrive.

Is there shade on the beach?

No natural shade on the sand. The headlands cast some shade in the early morning and late afternoon, but through the middle of the day the cove is fully exposed. Bring your own parasol or sun shelter.

What's the best time of day to visit?

Mid-morning on a falling tide gives you the most sand and the best snorkelling conditions. The water is often clearest before afternoon winds pick up. Late afternoon is quietest if you prefer solitude, though the beach will be smaller as the tide typically rises through the afternoon in summer.

Is it accessible for people with mobility issues?

No. The only access is a steep, uneven path with loose stones and no handrail. The beach itself is rocky at the edges. Anyone with mobility difficulties should consider Praia do Burgau or Praia da Boca do Rio, which has flat access from a car park.

Can I bring my dog?

Dogs are generally tolerated outside the bathing season (October–May). During summer (June–September), dogs are officially prohibited on most Algarve beaches. Cabanas Velhas now has seasonal lifeguards, so rules are more likely to be enforced. Use your judgement and keep dogs under control.

Last reviewed: 3 March 2026