Dine with a view
You smell the charcoal before you see the water. The cliff-top terrace at Restaurante Evaristo sits directly above a small cove, and the smoke from whole sea bass grilling over embers drifts across tables where families have been eating for three generations. Below, turquoise water laps against golden rock, and a handful of swimmers float in the shelter of the cliffs.
You come to Evaristo with purpose, usually booking well in advance for the fish and the view. The beach itself is a bonus: an intimate scoop of sand barely 30 metres wide, where you can swim before or after your meal. Book lunch, arrive early, swim in the cove while the table's being set, and eat whole sea bass with your hair still drying.
Why Visit Praia do Evaristo
- Charcoal-grilled seafood on the clifftop: Restaurante Evaristo has served fresh fish to generations of loyal customers, and the whole grilled sea bass remains one of the best dishes on the Albufeira coast
- Terrace directly above the water: tables on the cliff edge look straight down into the cove, with the sound of waves below and the smell of salt and charcoal in the air
- Sheltered swimming cove: the cliffs block the wind and the water stays calm, warmer than more exposed beaches nearby
- Combine a swim with a meal: arrive an hour early, take the steps down to the sand, and dry off before lunch arrives
- Sunset tables worth planning around: the terrace faces west, and the light on the water in the hour before sunset is worth the advance booking
- Away from the tourist strips: west of Albufeira centre, in the Sesmarias area, with none of the crowds or noise of the main resort beaches
Good to know
- Busy in May–October (68/100 crowding)
Timing to consider
- January–March: sea temperature 16°C, no lifeguard
The beach
The cove is small, perhaps 30 metres of coarse golden sand between weathered rock formations. At high tide, the beach shrinks to almost nothing. At low tide, you can pick your way across the rocks at the edges and find shallow pools where small fish dart between the crevices.
The water is remarkably clear in this sheltered spot. You can see the sandy bottom from waist depth, and the rock walls on either side break the swell so it rarely gets rough. It is a good place for a quick swim, not a beach to spend all day on. There are no sunbeds to speak of, no beach bar, and once the restaurant terrace fills at lunchtime, the cove below feels like a private annexe.
If you want space to spread out or a full day on the sand, Praia de São Rafael is a 15-minute walk east along the cliff path and has everything Evaristo lacks in size and facilities.
The restaurant
Restaurante Evaristo is the reason most people come here. The family has run it for decades, and the formula has not changed: fresh fish, a charcoal grill, and a terrace with one of the best views of any restaurant on the coast.
The menu is simple. Choose your fish from the display (sea bass, bream, sole, whatever came in that morning) and it is grilled whole over charcoal and served with boiled potatoes, salad, and olive oil. The whole grilled sea bass is what most tables order, and for good reason. Expect to pay €40–60 per person for a full meal with wine. Fish is priced by weight, so check before ordering if budget matters.
The terrace fills quickly in summer. Sunset tables on the cliff edge are the most requested and need booking at least a week ahead. Lunchtime is slightly easier, but turning up without a reservation in July or August is a gamble.
Best time to visit
For lunch: book for 1pm and arrive an hour early for a swim. The light on the water is strongest at midday, and you will have dried off by the time your fish arrives.
For sunset: the terrace faces west and catches the full golden hour. Book at least a week in advance for summer evenings; these tables go first.
For the beach: mornings before 11am, when the cove is quiet and the water is calmest. Once the restaurant fills, the atmosphere shifts from beach to outdoor dining room.
Seasonal note: the restaurant operates year-round but is busiest April–October. Winter visits mean easier bookings and the same fresh fish, but check opening hours in advance.
Practical information
Getting there: located west of Albufeira, off the main coast road. Follow signs towards Sesmarias and then Evaristo. The road is narrow in the final stretch.
Parking: the restaurant has its own car park, free for diners. If you are not eating, finding a space is difficult. There is no public parking nearby. This is a restaurant with a beach, not the other way round.
Beach access: either down through the restaurant terrace (if you are dining) or via steep steps from the clifftop path to the west. The steps are uneven in places.
Reservations: essential in summer, especially for sunset tables and weekends. Book at least a week ahead for peak times. Walk-ins are possible on quieter weekdays outside July and August, but do not count on it.
Cost: expect €40–60 per person for grilled fish, sides, and wine. The fish is priced by weight, so ask the price before the fish goes on the grill.
Insider tips
- Book at least a week ahead for summer sunset tables; they fill before anything else
- The whole grilled sea bass is the house speciality and the dish to order on a first visit
- Arrive an hour before a lunch booking and take the steps down for a swim first
- The cliff path east connects to Praia de São Rafael in about 15 minutes, a good walk after a heavy lunch
- Winter visits are easier to book and the fish is just as fresh, though the terrace can be windy
- Ask for a table on the terrace edge rather than the interior for the best view of the cove
Beach facilities
- Restaurants
- Yes — Restaurante Evaristo (booking recommended)
- Beach bars
- No
- Toilets
- Yes — At the restaurant (for diners)
- Showers
- Limited
- Lifeguards
- No
- Sunbed rental
- No
- Water sports
- No
- Parking
- Yes — Restaurant car park (diners only in practice)
- Access
- steep steps from clifftop or through restaurant terrace
Frequently asked questions
Is Evaristo really about the restaurant?
Yes. Restaurante Evaristo is the draw, a family-run place that has been grilling fresh fish over charcoal for decades. The beach is small and secondary. Most people come for the food and treat the cove as a pre-lunch or post-lunch swim spot. If you want a beach day, this is not the right choice.
Do I need to book the restaurant?
In summer, absolutely. Sunset tables need booking at least a week in advance, and even lunchtime fills on weekends. Outside July and August, walk-ins on weekday lunchtimes are possible but not guaranteed. Calling ahead is always the safer option.
Is the beach good for swimming?
The cove is sheltered and the water is calm, warmer than the more exposed beaches nearby. You can see the bottom clearly from waist depth. It suits a quick swim rather than a full beach day. There is not much sand to lie on, especially at high tide.
How much does a meal cost?
Budget €40–60 per person for grilled fish, sides, and wine. Fish is priced by weight, so the final bill depends on what you choose. Sea bass and bream are the staples. It is not cheap, but the quality of the fish and the setting make it worthwhile.
Can I visit the beach without eating at the restaurant?
Technically yes. There are steps down from the clifftop path. But parking is intended for restaurant guests, and without a car park space you would need to walk from some distance. The beach is also very small. Most visitors combine the two.
What is the best dish to order?
The whole grilled sea bass, cooked over charcoal and served with boiled potatoes and salad. It is simple, fresh, and the reason regulars keep coming back. The fish is chosen from the daily display and grilled to order.
Is it suitable for families?
The water is calm and shallow enough for children to paddle safely. The restaurant welcomes families, though the atmosphere is more sit-down meal than casual beachside lunch. Families wanting space to run around or full beach facilities should consider Praia de São Rafael instead.
How do I get there?
Head west from Albufeira towards Sesmarias. Signs for Evaristo appear on the coast road. The final approach is a narrow lane ending at the restaurant car park. There is no public transport, so you will need a car or taxi.
Is the restaurant open year-round?
Generally yes, though with reduced hours in winter. It is worth calling ahead outside peak season to confirm opening times. The fish is just as fresh in January, and you will not need to book a week in advance.
Can I walk to other beaches from here?
A cliff path heads east to Praia de São Rafael, about 15 minutes on foot. The walk has good views along the coast and is an easy way to combine two beaches in one visit. Wear proper shoes; the path is rough in places.
Is there shade on the beach?
Limited. The cliffs cast some shade in the afternoon, but the cove faces south and gets full sun for most of the day. If you need shade, the restaurant terrace has parasols — though you will be expected to order.
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